One of the most widespread natural aromatics are Vegetable (petals, leaves and stems of flowers, green-stuffs, fruit, bark, roots, juice and resin of trees and bushes).
Plant sources As a source of essential oils and aroma compounds plants were given preference long time ago. These aromatics are considered to be secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores, infections, as well as to attract pollinators. Plants the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery. The sources of these compounds could be received from various parts of a plant by the method of derivation. A plant can include more than one source of aromatics, for instance the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have outstanding different odors from each other. Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petit grain, neroli, and orange oils.
Flowers and Blossoms Without any doubts the largest source of aromatics is flowers, especially several species of rose and jasmine, osmanthus, mimosa, tuberose, the blossoms of citrus and ylang-ylang trees as well. Unopened clove buds are also commonly used but it isn't really traditionally. Orchid flowers are not commercially used to produce essential oils or absolutes, except in the case of vanilla.
Leaves and Twigs The other common sources for perfume are lavender leaf, patchouli, sage, violets, rosemary, and citrus leaves. Some kinds of leaves bring the "green" smell to perfumes, examples of these include hay and tomato leaf.
Roots, rhizomes and bulbs Commonly used terrestrial portions in perfumery include iris rhizomes, vetiver roots, and various rhizomes of the ginger family.
Synthetic aromatics allow replacing practically every natural aroma. Greater part of these constituents smells far not like roses, however in combination with a tender, sweetish, spicy smell which is used for creation of east aromas, we receive great smell.
Synthetic aromatics are created through organic synthesis from various chemical compounds that are received by the method of distillation from petroleum, pine resins, or other relatively cheap organic feedstock. Synthetics can produce fragrances which could not be found in nature. For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh odorous, metallic marine scent that is very famous in modern perfumes. Synthetic aromatics help in perfumery to replace compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources. For example, linalool and coumarone are both naturally occurring compounds that can be cheaply synthesized from terpenes. Orchid scents, which couldn’t be obtained naturally in the process of derivation of plants, are artificially created to match the fragrant compounds found in various orchids.
The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies. They include: - International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) - Givaudan - Firmenich - Quest International - Takasago - Symrise
Each of these companies possesses the patent for several processes of the production of aromatic synthetics annually.
|